Fabric lexicon
Fabric lexicon
Difference between Japanese and conventional denim
Japanese denim is characterized by careful craftsmanship, a special weaving technique, and high-quality materials. It often offers a more homogeneous appearance and develops a characteristic patina with wear, which differs from conventional denim, which is often industrially manufactured.
Japanese Heritage & Craftsmanship
Denim is a woven twill fabric, usually made from cotton. While the warp end is dyed, the weft remains undyed. Named after the southern French city of Nîmes, a robust cotton/hemp fiber fabric for clothing was invented there.
Denim comes in various types, differing in material composition, weave, color, and surface texture. This diversity allows for a wide selection for different applications – from robust workwear fabrics to fine denim for fashion and everyday wear.
Selvage Denim
Selvage denim is finished at the edges, creating a clean finish. This is achieved by weaving the weft thread through the warp thread with a shuttle. Meanwhile, the weft thread is continuously woven back and forth, causing the edges of the fabric to self-seal. This special weaving process, which uses traditional looms with antique shuttles, allows the fabric to typically reach a maximum width of approximately 80 cm. This also makes it very durable, developing a beautiful patina over time due to its rough, uneven surface.
Kasuri (絣)
Kasuri is a significant weaving technique in traditional Japanese textile art and is prized for creating unique patterns with a distinctive, fuzzy look. These patterns are created by precisely dyeing the threads before the weaving process, which requires exceptional craftsmanship. Each type of kasuri—whether tate, yoko, tate-yoko, e-gasuri, or hogushi—offers different aesthetic possibilities, from simple, geometric lines to detailed images and smooth transitions.
Kasuri fabrics are widely used in traditional Japanese clothing such as kimonos, obi, and handicraft textiles. Their beauty and uniqueness lie in the fact that no pattern can be reproduced exactly, giving each fabric its own individual character. This makes kasuri a valuable art form that combines tradition and innovation in textile design.
Sashiko
Sashiko is a traditional Japanese embroidery technique originally developed to reinforce and embellish fabrics. It features simple geometric patterns and the incorporation of colored threads into the fabric, creating a unique texture.
Slub Denim
Slubby denim is a denim fabric that is intentionally woven unevenly and loosely, giving it a soft, relaxed texture and a natural, slightly washed-out appearance. The loose weave creates a casual and flowing feel that's less stiff than traditional denim. Slubby denim is particularly popular for casual wear and relaxed jeans styles due to its relaxed look and comfort.
Slub yarn is crucial for the production of slubby denim, as it enhances the irregular, textured look and soft feel of this fabric. The thickening and thinning of the slub yarn creates a vibrant, "flame-like" structure in the fabric, which perfectly matches slubby denim's relaxed, casual aesthetic. The use of slub yarn ensures that slubby denim has a particularly soft and loose drape, which enhances its characteristic vintage look and comfortable feel.
Neppy Denim
Neppy denim is a special type of denim characterized by visible, irregular pills and fiber clumps known as "neps." These are usually caused by natural irregularities in the cotton or by controlled processing during spinning and weaving. This gives the fabric a slightly uneven, textured surface, giving it a rustic and artisanal look that is often perceived as "vintage" or "used." Neppy denim is often used for casual jeans and jackets and is especially popular with lovers of distinctive, structured clothing.
American Workwear Spirit
This category includes weaves that have their roots in the American working world. Japanese weaving mills have adopted these robust classics and, through the use of old looms and the highest quality indigo dyes, have elevated them to a level that is now considered the global gold standard.
Hickory Denim
Known as "Railroad Stripe," this blue-and-white striped denim is a true symbol of America's pioneering days. The distinctive stripe pattern was originally designed to visually conceal stains and dirt. Hickory denim is usually a bit lighter than classic 5-pocket denim fabric, but its special weave makes it extremely tear-resistant. In its Japanese version, it impresses with particularly clean lines and an exceptional indigo color depth.
Canvas (Sailcloth)
Canvas is a sturdy, heavyweight fabric typically made from cotton or linen. Due to its tight weave and high thread count, canvas is particularly durable and long-lasting. The fabric is traditionally known for its use in workwear, sails, and tents, but is also valued for modern applications such as bags, backpacks, shoe finishes, and furniture covers. Canvas is available in various weights and finishes, including water-repellent coated versions that make it even more versatile.
Non-selvage denim
Non-selvage denim, on the other hand, is produced on modern looms equipped with projectile shuttles. This allows for higher speeds. Instead of a traditional shuttle, the looms have a small metal device resembling a ball that carries the weft thread over the warp thread. This weft insertion process results in frayed edges at both ends of the fabric, which must be hemmed before the product is sewn to prevent fraying. Thanks to the more modern weaving process, non-selvage denim can have a width of up to approximately 160 cm.
European Traditions
These weaves have a long history in European craftsmanship and textile art. In Japan, these classic patterns and weaves are reinterpreted with the utmost precision, focusing on the balance between historical elegance and modern durability.
moleskin
Moleskin is a dense, heavy cotton fabric known for its soft, velvety surface. The fabric is woven in a twill weave and then brushed to achieve its characteristic, almost velour-like texture. Moleskin is extremely durable and windproof, making it particularly suitable for rugged workwear, outdoor clothing, and hunting jackets. Despite its robust properties, moleskin feels soft and is also used for casual wear due to its high level of comfort.
Chambray
Chambray is a lightweight woven fabric often confused with denim, although it differs in structure, weight, and use. It is traditionally made from cotton, but can also be made from linen or other fibers. Chambray is known for its smooth, soft texture and airy structure.
Herringbone
A fabric with a characteristic herringbone weave that gives it a distinctive texture. This is created by a change in the direction of the ridge. In herringbone twill, the weave points are shifted by one or more weft threads when the ridge changes, so that the ridges do not converge sharply. This weave can be emphasized by using different colors for the warp and weft.
Twill
Twill is a fabric characterized by its diagonal, parallel structure, created by what is known as the "twill weave." This pattern is created by passing the weft thread under and over several warp threads in a staggered sequence. Twill fabrics are known for their durability, flexibility, and soft texture, making them particularly versatile. They are often used for clothing such as jeans, chinos, and suits, as well as for home furnishings. Variations in the thread pattern create different types of twill, including herringbone and denim, all of which feature different diagonal patterns and textures.
The Evolution of Indigo: Fading & Casts
Purchasing Japanese selvedge denim is just the beginning. Unlike industrially pre-manufactured clothing, our denim is a "living" material that transforms through your movements and daily life. In the following images, you'll see the impressive transformation from raw yardage to a unique piece with character.
The Fading – Your Personal Map
Indigo is a dye that does not penetrate deep into the core of the cotton fiber but rather forms a layer around it. Through friction and wear, this layer breaks open in the areas that are most stressed – at the joints, pockets, or hem. This creates the iconic contrasts:
- Whiskers: The radial creases at the hips.
- Honeycombs: The honeycomb pattern in the hollows of the knees.
Depending on the fabric's structure – whether smooth twill or characterful slub – this fading can be sharp-edged and high-contrast, or soft and flowing.
Red Cast vs. Green Cast – The Soul of Color
If you compare our indigo fabrics, you'll notice that not all blues are created equal. Depending on the technical dyeing process, denim develops a specific color direction, known as a "cast":
Red Cast: The Classic
This denim has a subtle purplish-red undertone and appears very rich and deep blue when new. As it fades, it usually develops a very clear, light blue contrast reminiscent of the vintage look of the 1950s.
- The technical difference: Red cast is created by the classic Pure Indigo dyeing process. The yarn is repeatedly dipped in pure indigo baths and oxidized in the air in between. Since pure indigo naturally has a slightly violet color spectrum, this deep, cool blue hue is created without additional dyes.
Green Cast: The Vintage Legacy
This denim has a more earthy appearance and a slight greenish or yellowish shimmer, which often only becomes visible when directly compared or in sunlight. It fades to a beautiful, almost sea-green or petrol blue, creating a very authentic 1940s "old-school" patina.
- The Technical Difference: The secret to green cast lies in "sulfur bottoming." Before the yarn enters the actual indigo bath, it is primed (dipped) with a yellow or green sulfur dye. When the indigo later wears off during use, this sulfur-yellow primer shimmers through the remaining blue, visually creating the legendary green tint.
ounces (oz)
In the context of denim, the unit " ounce " (abbreviated "oz") refers to the weight of the fabric per square meter. More precisely, it indicates the weight of one yard (0.91 meters) of denim fabric per yard of width. The ounce measurement determines the thickness, density, and robustness of the fabric, which affects the feel and durability of jeans or denim garments.
The typical weight classes are:
Light (5-8 oz) :
Very soft, flexible denim, often used for shirts or summer clothing.
Medium (9-12 oz) :
The most common denim for jeans. These weights offer a good balance between durability and comfort and are suitable for year-round wear.
Heavy (13-16 oz) :
Robust and stiff fabric that is particularly durable. These jeans are initially somewhat uncomfortable, but develop a particularly distinctive patina over time.
Extra heavy (17 oz and over) :
A very thick and robust fabric, often worn by enthusiasts seeking a distinctive, individual look. The break-in period can be long and initially uncomfortable, but the patina and appearance are often particularly characteristic.
Weight is therefore a key factor in the style, comfort, and durability of jeans.
How do I calculate ounces?
To determine the weight of denim in ounces per square meter (oz/yd²), you can use a simple method using a cut-out square and a scale. Here's a step-by-step guide:
Procedure:
Cut a square : Cut a 10 cm x 10 cm (100 cm²) square from the denim fabric. This size is ideal because the weight can be easily converted.
Weighing : Weigh the square on a fine scale and record the weight in grams.
Calculation : Multiply the measured weight of the 10 cm x 10 cm piece in grams by 0.282 (this corresponds to the conversion to oz/yd²). The value in ounces indicates the approximate weight of the fabric.
Formula:
Weight in oz/yd^2 = Weight in grams x 0.282
Example:
If your denim square weighs 25 grams, the calculation is:
25g x 0.282 = 7.05 oz/yd^2
Explanation:
Denim fabrics are often measured in oz/yd², as this measurement influences the thickness and durability of the material. This simple method allows you to determine the weight of a denim fabric precisely and easily.